GLYCOLIC ACID: WHAT IS IT - AND WHY DO WE USE IT ON OUR SKIN?

The first step to find the perfect skincare regime for you is to understand exactly what’s in the creams you’re putting on your skin. Different hero skincare ingredients have different benefits, so it’s key to understand which components of your favorite products are working for you.

Here we’re going to look at glycolic acid, how it works, and what you need to know about the common skincare ingredient. To help us, we’ve enlisted the expertise of Dr. Mervyn Patterson, cosmetic dermatologist at Woodford Medical.

1. What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a commonly used skincare ingredient and is one of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) group. Other examples of AHAs are lactic and citric acids. Glycolic acid was originally made from plant sources such as sugar but nowadays it is more commonly made synthetically.

What is it used for in skincare products?

It’s predominantly used as an exfoliant. Glycolic acid disrupts the bonds or glue between the superficial skin cells encouraging them to exfoliate away. Glycolic also has a mild antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect with some hydration and stimulation of collagen production.

2. What are the benefits?

Glycolic exfoliation helps to make the skin look smoother with some additional anti-wrinkle effect coming from increased thickness of the epidermal and dermal layers.

3. Any downsides?

Glycolic ingredients are attracted to water and for this reason they don't easily pass into the skin. In order to get glycolic to penetrate the external skin barrier, the preparation must be in an acidic formulation. Higher concentrations of glycolic mean higher levels of acidity, necessary chemical stabilizers and PH adjusters increasing the incidence of skin irritation. Redness, dryness and irritation are common with the higher glycolic levels and can make these products very unsuitable for a large number of people.

4. Anything else we should know about it?

There are alternatives available that offer similar benefits. Much better options now exist in the form of beta hydroxyl acids such as salicylic acid. Multiple clinical studies have shown the effectiveness of salicylic in treating signs of ageing. Salicylic is a molecule that is attracted to lipid rather than water so more easily penetrates into the skin and is much less likely to cause irritation than glycolic.

Thanks to: marieclaire.co.uk